>Ok.. So im planning on running all my lines inside the car. 
>I need a little help as to what I will need, and how to go 
>about it. 
>
>Things I think i will need: 
>
>Copper 3/16 brake lines NorthAmerica doesn't like copper or copper-nickle
>alloys
Just get the stuff at Napa or AutoZone, it 's correct soft steel
>fittings
Yeah, I use normal Amerikanskij "Inverted flare" for all but the
connections to the Master cylinder and calipers. Shop carefully for
fittings and just go ahead and get aluminum -3 bulkhead fittings, 4 of
them. they're cheaper than trying to fins steel since it is only really a
car size.
>pipe bender tool 
Optional there are some cheesy little fixed things which work just fine and
so do broom handles, beer bottles (for safety's sake drain the bottle
first!!)
>flaring tool 
It's unfortunenate but there are some really horrible junk flaring tools
out there, I am cheepest guy in the know world except when it comes to
brakes. Shop carefully.
>
>Is that all? or am I missing something? From what I 
>understand, I will need to run one line out of the master 
>cylinder, through the firewall, through the handbrake 
>mastercylinder, then through an adjustable prop valve, and 
>then finally, split the line, and send one half to one rear 
>caliper, and the other half. To the other rear caliper. 
No.
From master to bulkhead fitting to cheap screw type brake _limiter_(Racer
Wholesale about $39 on sale constantly or Speedway Motors) then into the
handbrake master (You're welcome Glenn!!), out of the handbrake master to
rear bulkhead into a "T" out to the corners and thru a -3 bulkhead fitting
and then out to what passes for rear brakes.
Limiter (not Proportioning valve) BEFORE the handbrake master, you don't
want to limit YOUR ARM's force do you?
>
>For the front lines, I would simply run one line out of the 
>master cylinder, then split it and send it to the front two 
>calipers. This disposes of the stock honda splitters, prop 
>valves etc... relying on the adjustable valve to reduce the 
>rear pressure. 
Yeah. The way I like to terminate the steel lines is in a -3 female end
screwed into a -3 Bulkhead fitting so there is a male end in the wheel
housing. Next screw in a permanent adaptor into the caliper with a -3 male
sticking out. Now fab your hoses using _REPLACEABLE_ fittings not crimped,
with -3 female swivels on each end so they're not end for end unique and 1
man with one wrench can swap a damaged hose correctly and have it oriented
right when tight. Not wound up like often happens when screwing hose
straight into calipers.
>
>Does this sound correct? Please let me know. Never done 
>brake lines before. Thanks 
Plan carefully, buy more fittings than you think especially 3/16 female
female unions and lots of tube nuts.
And check your Honda threads carefully, there is a lot of varion on what
the various Japanese cars use M10 x 1 inverted flare, M10 x 1.25 bubble
etc. The inscrutable devils!


John "Gwai lo" Vanlandingham
Seattle, WA. 98168
Vive le Prole-le-ralliat