Aluminum can be worked (for the most part) with standard carbide wood workng tools. A skill saw or table saw will go right thru aluminum. Use a carbide blade. More teeth is better than fewer. Use the "thicker' blades. Thin Kerf blades will more readily shear the teeth off. I've cut 3/4 thick on my table saw. Wear goggles and a face mask, cover your neck, wear gloves, use ear protection. I've also used a hand power planer and a router on aluminum. A Sawzall will do detail work. I've had all of the recipro saws. In my opinion the Milwaukee is the best. It has a very good variable speed, which is good with metal work. The BEST metal blades are LENOX. They are expensive and worth it. Their hack saw blade can be tied in a knot and pounded flat, and not break. This is good with metal working, since they are always binding and kinking. Next best is Milwaukee & Makita. Just for info. Aluminum, iron, brass, and stainless steel can be cut with a plane-old lumber yard hole-saw. Go slow, use oil and pressure. another tip: There are better grinder disks available than the old hard ones we all grew up with. They are glued up overlaping sheets, like a flapper disk. They don't leave such a burr and feather edges much better. There is a special one for aluminum to prevent clogging. For finer deburring I use a 120 grit belt sander belt with board inside of it. Skye, is that car going to be ready for Thunderbird? I'm still available. I tried to e-mail you but all your addresses go to a site not to you. If you are still interested e-mail me. Dick Fuhrman beedriver@webtv.net >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I use a sabre-saw (jigsaw) and beeswax on aluminum. If you can get a variable speed Bosch jigsaw, it's the absolute best. Slower speeds are much smoother and the beeswax acts as a lube and to keep the aluminum from gumming up the teeth. Jigsaw can be used for aluminum from very thin, like .025 all the way up to 1" thick. It is also very handy for plastic, wood, steel, ceramic, etc. Great all around tool.